Tanzanian Luxury  
By Kuwana Haulsey

I woke just before dawn to the sound of lions roaring outside my door. In the semidarkness, their rumbling cries seemed to come from every direction, making me acutely aware of the fact that the only thing separating me from them was a flight of stairs and a zippered tent flap.

A few minutes later, there came a gentle tapping at our canvas door. My fiancé opened the tent flap, and our butler entered carrying a tray of warm muffins and tea. So began our adventure at Kirawira Camp, the first stop on our weeklong Tanzanian safari.
 
When most people think of a safari, they picture hot, dusty roads and meager accommodations. But you won’t find any pup tents on dirt floors here. With lodges featuring infinity pools and Victorian decor, hot air balloon adventures, night game drives, and windsurfing on the Indian Ocean, the personalized luxury safari is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

After leaving Kirawira, we traveled for days by jeep across the southeastern plains of the Serengeti, encountering vast herds of zebras, gazelles, wildebeests, elephants, impalas, and lions along the route. Emanuel, our guide from Roy Safaris Limited, recognized and described each variety of animal down to the smallest starling. At one point, an elephant sauntered out of the bush and came right onto the road beside our parked jeep, so near that if I’d reached out of the window, I could have touched her. The thrill of being that close to such intense power and beauty left an indelible impression on me.

The last stop was Tarangire National Park and Kikoti Safari Camp, the most rugged and by far the most unspoiled and romantic of the luxury camps. During migration season, animals wander beneath the rooms, which are built on stilts and decorated in rich cream and caramel colors that mirror the golden hue of the grasslands outside. “If you need to leave your room after dark,” the concierge explained as we checked in, “please call one of our security guards. All of them have a gun, spear, or bow and arrow to use for protection, and they will escort you wherever you wish to go.” I couldn’t wait for daylight.

Thrilled with anticipation, I stood on my veranda, watching herds of animals, some just tiny dots in the distance, migrating by the hundreds across the grasslands. An experience of that magnitude stays with you long after the trip is over. It is an awesome reminder of the truth, splendor, and majesty of who we are and where we come from.

If you go …
Getting there: Most people begin their safari adventure in centrally located Arusha. To get there, fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport, Nairobi, or the capital city, Dar Es Salaam.
Where to stay: A good tour company will arrange all your accommodations while on safari. However, be sure to ask about Kibo Palace in Arusha (kibopalacehotel.com), a magnificent luxury hotel that many people use as their staging location.   
Smart tip: You’ll see the largest number of animals between December and early June when they migrate across the Serengeti in large numbers. Avoid traveling at the peak of rainy season, which can be different times for different places. And bring warm clothes—Africa can get cold!