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72 Hours in London
By Keija Minor
Shopping, nightclubs—many of the trends we pick up start here, and the museums impress even the not-so-artsy. Yes, London has become a pricey jaunt thanks to the crushing weight of the pound, but it’s still worth the trip. Spend a little more time in the Tate Modern than in Harrods and you’ll be fine. Here’s how to spend three days on the other side
of the pond.
DAY 1
Morning: Land at British Airways’ new terminal 5 at Heathrow. With a little luck, you’ve kicked out some frequent flyer miles or extra bucks to ride in the front of the bus. You’ve taken advantage of the flatbeds, slept the whole trip, and now feel well rested. Skip the nearly $100 taxi ride and hop on the Heathrow Express (heathrowexpress.com) for about $28 and 20 minutes, or take the Underground (aka “tube” or “subway” to you) for about $7 and 50 minutes. Think of it as a dose of local culture—“mind the gap” will now mean more to you than just a slogan on a T-shirt. Check into the all-the-rage May Fair Hotel. The contemporary rooms are surprisingly large, with closets and bathrooms you’d kill for at home. Recognize the lobby and bar? They were both featured in Showtime’s Secret Diary of a Call Girl. We didn’t see any friends of Eliot Spitzer when we were there, but the crowd was very sexy. Afternoon: We said cut down on the shopping, but what we really mean is shop selectively. Guys, or those shopping for guys, should walk over to Jermyn Street for the best in shirts and hand-sewn ties. London is one of the few places where the men’s shopping may actually top the women’s. Take advantage and pick up impeccable work wear made only the way the Brits can. If you’re more of a foodie than a fashionista, check out Borough Market (boroughmarket.org.uk), the most amazing farmers’ market you’ll ever experience. Established in 1756, the city’s oldest food market used to be open only to trade and restaurateurs. However, in 1999 it opened to the public. While it’s tough to smuggle world-renowned asparagus from Suffolk back to the United States through customs—seriously, we do not recommend that—you can buy packaged goods, like truffle-infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar (so sweet and tangy it’s all you’ll need on a salad) directly from the farmers who bring it up from Italy. And the bonus? It will cost less here than most anywhere else.
If you want to skip the tour and just enjoy the food, dine at the adjacent restaurant, Roast (roast-restaurant.com). The airy eatery, housed in a beautiful landmark building, makes all of its meals with the freshest ingredients plucked daily from the market.
Evening: The jet lag may be catching up with you, so this may be the night to stay close to the hotel. Lucky for you, The May Fair is in a central location. If you’re hungry, bop across the street to Nobu (noburestaurants.com) for sushi and Asian-fusion fare. Whether in Miami, London, New York, or Mykonos, Nobu can always be counted on for cute food and an even cuter crowd. Late Night: Have a nightcap back at The May Fair bar. Mixology is taken seriously here, and no visit is complete without trying the mojito, rated by the popular British mag Tatler as the best out-side of Cuba.
DAY 2
Morning: Start the day off right with The May Fair’s in-house expert trainer, Myke Gray. The ex-rocker (whose band once toured with Aerosmith and Ozzy Osbourne) is now a well-known life coach and nutritional adviser. London’s fabulous—along with hotel guests—schedule sessions with the reformed partyer to whip themselves into shape. He’ll teach you a few new moves to revamp your workout. Afternoon: If you’ve never done it, now is the time to ride a double-decker bus. The Big Bus Tour (bigbustours.com) picks up and drops off at more than 70 stops throughout the city. You’ll pass Buckingham Palace and all the landmarks. Hop off when you feel like it, and hop back on a different bus when you’re ready. It’s about $40 for a day pass, but it’s a great way to get the lay of the land. One place to jump off is at the Tate Modern (tate.org.uk). If you have even the slightest interest in contemporary art, you will get lost in the cavernous space and spend more time here than you planned. We appreciate that for most of its pieces the Tate provides brief explanations or background, pasted on placards, that are actually helpful. If you’re there before February 1, don’t miss the buzzed-about Rothko exhibit. Evening: The West End is London’s critically acclaimed theater district, bubbling with rising talent. Check out a play (londontheatre.co.uk) at one of the smaller houses or see if you can get into The Old Vic, where Kevin Spacey is the artistic director. But first, have dinner at the Italian restaurant Cecconi’s (cecconis.co.uk), which serves classic dishes in an elegant but relaxed setting. If you’re afraid to have a big meal before sitting for a play, this is reportedly the only restaurant in London that serves Italian tapas. Late Night: After the play, hit one of the hot spots of the moment: Bungalow 8, Paper, or Vantage. Other favorites include Carbon, which plays hip-hop on Saturdays, and downstairs at China White, which can be counted on for good music on the weekends.
DAY 3
Morning: Have breakfast at your hotel (room service, if you’re hungover) and then head out for Harvey Nichols (harveynichols.com). No trip is complete without a stop at this high-end department store, filled with luxe designs and baubles from the world’s best in fashion. Some names you’ll know; others, especially many of the European and Asian brands, you’ll now remember. Make sure to check out the fourth floor filled with indie fragrance brands and finds from lesser-known designers. Skip the cheesy T-shirts and pick up a very British gift for your loved ones on this shopping excursion. After working your way through the four floors of glam, you may need to refuel, so head to the fifth-floor gourmet food court. Even if you’re not hungry, it’s worth the trip upstairs–and you’ll most likely change your mind when you see the rows and rows of upscale snacks. Afternoon: If you’re not shopped-out, check out the mega-department store Harrods (harrods.com), complete with the ode to Princess Diana on the lower level. Or, and this is highly recommended, head to the Victoria and Albert Museum (vam.ac.uk). One of the world’s greatest art and design centers, the museum houses exhibits that even the culturally challenged will love. The galleries are dedicated to a range of mediums and subjects, including architecture, fashion, furniture, photography, and painting. The one common thread is that the collection is long on cool and short on stuffy. The fashion and accessories collection, ranging from corsets to Vivienne Westwood platform pumps, is spectacular. And the jewelry galleries give new meaning to the word “bling.” Unfortunately, “The Story of the Supremes from the Mary Wilson Collection” exhibit, featuring the groups’ performance outfits, ended in October, but the permanent collection is absolutely worth the time. Evening: This is a good night to kick it with your ex-pat friends. Chances are they live in Notting Hill or South Kensington, as you can’t finish a cocktail in either of these ’hoods without bumping into an American. Enjoy dinner here at a neighborhood pub. Late Night: Here’s hoping one of those friends has a membership to one of London’s posh private clubs, like Groucho (the older sister to New York’s Norwood) or Soho House (the original branch of NYC’s hot spot of the same name)—the members’ and invite-only lounges typically offer a swankier scene than the all-access nightclubs. If not, head to one of the clubs that you didn’t get a chance to check out last night. Most spots stay open until 4 a.m., so you should have no trouble sleeping on the plane tomorrow. Just don’t miss your flight—it has happened to the best of us in London.
WHERE TO STAY: THE MAY FAIR (radissonedwardian.com/Mayfair) is chic, trendy, and conveniently located—it’s no wonder why Matt Damon stayed here while filming Bourne Supremacy. Jude Law is known to host screenings in the private theater, and as a bonus, there’s a full-size members-only casino on the ground floor to which you, as a guest, will have access. The one-of-a-kind cocktails in the bar, a destination for locals and guests, may leave you groggy, but it’s nothing that the recently renovated spa can’t cure. (From $350 a night) THE SANDERSON (sandersonlondon.com) will always be a favorite. The Morgan Group (and founder Ian Schrager) created the boutique hotel concept, and no one does it better. From the Delano in Miami to the Mondrian in L.A., the uniquely modern outposts are always the in-the-scene places to stay. (From $360 a night) THE SAVOY (fairmont.com) offers the consistency of the Fairmont Hotels with classic British flair and touches. Located on the Strand across from the countless restaurants and shops of Covent Gardens, it’s also within walking distance of many of the West End theaters. While Elizabeth Taylor and The Beatles stayed there back in the day, it’s undergoing major renovations (to the tune of more than $100 million in upgrades) and now you’re more likely to find Naomi Campbell sipping in the lounge. (About $600 a night).
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